FFXIAH.com

∞Hard Disk Drives∞

Size

When you're shopping for an internal hard drive, the most crucial characteristic is its size. Unsurprisingly larger drives are usually (but not always) more expensive than drives with smaller capacities. If you regularly shoot videos or use your PC for recording television, go for the biggest hard drive you can get: upwards of 2TB. Serious photographers who store lots of photos in RAW format will also want a fair amount of space, as will music lovers with vast MP3 or AAC libraries and serious gamers. (If all you play are casual games, you're probably fine.) Everyone else can probably get away with less; you don't need much space to just install Windows 7 and Microsoft Office, and store Word documents, Excel spreadsheets, and a small collection of family photos.

How Many

though mainstream systems with only one hard drive. There are some real-world benefits to having more than one drive installed on your computer. Chief among them are speed and value, which we'll get to later, and the security of knowing that neither a catastrophic Windows crash nor a freak power supply failure will wipe out a decade's worth of cherished memories or vital business records. Having one drive exclusively for your programs and at least one drive for everything else is about the best compromise possible. If you don't think you'll need all that space, a single, high-quality drive will be fine.

Price

Try to avoid just going for the cheapest hard drive on the market. It will hold all of your personal data, so you want to buy for quality. Read user reviews and if a hard drive is getting good reviews and it's cheap, go for it. Otherwise, steer clear.

WARNING!!Don’t buy refurbished hard drives no matter how low the price is. The potential trouble down the road is not worth the savings

Redundant Arrays of Independent Disks (RAID)

If you've got more than one hard drive in your system, there's nothing wrong with just letting each one operate independently. But setting them up in a RAID configuration can give you added options, performance, and security. With RAID, which stands for Redundant Array of Independent Disks (or Inexpensive Disks), you can "combine" multiple smaller drives to create one big drive (RAID Level 0, or "striping"), a single "mirrored" drive that offers no added space but guards against data loss (RAID Level 1), or a number of other configurations. Many motherboards today have integrated RAID controllers; check your system or motherboard manual if you're not sure yours does. RAID is too hefty a subject to cover in depth here. If you want to learn more click on the link below.

MORE INFORMATION ON RAID

Speed

Different hard drives spin at different rates, and the faster you want your PC to serve up your data, the more you'll usually have to pay to make it happen. The average speed for a desktop hard drive is 7,200 revolutions per minute (rpm), and you can get that right up to the (current) top capacity of 4TB. There are also 10,000~15,000rpm hard drives, which are noticeably faster but available in overall smaller capacities. Some "low-power," "energy-saving," or "green" hard drives spin even slower and cost even less like a Western Digital 5,400rpm 1TB Caviar Green drive. You should try to avoid 5,400RPM drives they will slow down your new system.

Interface

The method by which the drive connects to the computer can have a drastic impact on its performance. Almost every consumer drive you'll see these days uses Serial ATA (aka SATA), in either the older 3Gbps or the newer 6Gbps speed. If your motherboard has a 6Gbps (SATA III) port, and the drive supports the technology, definitely use it—it operates at twice the speed of the last generation of SATA.

Conclusion

The drive or drives you choose will depend primarily on your specific computing lifestyle and the amount of money you have to spend. Buy a modestly sized but fast main drive, such as a 10,000rpm VelociRaptor or an SSD, and install all your programs on that; and keep a second, bigger hard drive on hand for our data, even if it spins at slower speed.

∞Solid State Drives∞

SSDs have been the latest craze among PC owners seeking to enhance the overall performance and user experience of their current PCs. PC owners are attracted to the SSD’s promise of faster data access, lower power consumption, ruggedness, and its complete operational silence as compared to the rotating magnetic hard disk drives (HDDs) typically used today.

SSDs are based on NAND flash memory, like the kind you'll find in USB keys, memory cards, and music players, rather than the spinning, magnetized platters that hard drives use. This lets them access their data far more quickly than can hard drives, which have to physically track down the information you're looking for. If you have Windows 7 installed on an SSD rather than a hard drive, your PC may boot up in seconds rather than a minute or so. Doesn't sound too impressive? Calculate the number of times you boot your computer in a year, then add all the times you move or copy files, or save large videos or photos, and you'll be shocked at the amount of time you may be able to save.

Price

I don't like reducing every component buying decision down to how deep your pockets are but as with video cards the more you spend the better the performance. These things are expensive, and the more storage you want, the more you'll have to dish out. A 1TB Western Digital VelociRaptor hard drive, spinning at 10,000rpm, is currently available for $230 on Newegg.com, which means you're paying about 22 cents per gigabyte of space. By comparison, the the cheapest 1TB SSD Newegg lists is a version of the of the SAMSUNG 840 EVO, and it costs $649.99— 63 cents per gigabyte. If all you want to pay is $230 for a SSD, You still have bunch of choices such as 180Gb Intel 520 Cherryville, 240Gb Kingston V300 Series and 256Gb SAMSUNG 830 Series to name a few.

Size

First and foremost, junk the notion that you're going to put all of your data on an SSD. You're not. Unless your budget is massive. The good news is, you don't need to. First, you'll have to abandon the idea that more space is automatically better. 2nd figure out what Programs/games you use the most. Your operating system. Microsoft office and maybe some games (Crysis 3, Skyrim etc. not the leaner PopCap variety). Once you know this, determine how much space they take up. If you’re using a PC the easiest way to find this out is by looking at the "Size" column in the "Uninstall or change program" screen in Windows. now you know how big of an SSD to seek out. You should leave yourself a little wiggle room, say around 20GB but if all your programs/games add up to 50GB of space on your hard drive, spending $400 or more on a 512GB SSD is probably going to be a waste. Just put all the rest of your data (Pictures, Movies, Music) on a HDD

NOTE:The amount of storage space available on an SSD is seldom going to be exactly what's advertised. All SSDs require a little bit of space for "overprovisioning," or reserved functions that help the drive work. A drive that's advertised as 256GB, for example, might have less than 240GB available once it's formatted

Interface

All consumer SSDs use the Serial ATA (SATA) interface, but that doesn't mean you don't need to pay attention to that line on the spec sheet. There are two different versions of SATA: SATA II, which offers transfer rates of 3Gbps, and SATA III, which pushes data along at 6Gbps. Just as when you're buying a hard drive, faster is pretty much always better, so SATA III is the way to go if your hardware supports it. It's worth pointing out that a SATA II SSD will still be faster than pretty much any spinning hard drive, but it won't compare to SATA III.

TRIM SUPPORT!!

This feature is important because it allows the OS to inform the SSD which data blocks are no longer needed and can truly be deleted. The TRIM feature essentially allows the SSD to do its background “house cleaning” in preparation to store new data. If an SSD does not have this feature, the SSD’s read and write performance can be severely hindered – it will essentially be trying to move in and clean house all at once. Not fun! Most new drives do in fact support the TRIM command, but this is one feature you’ll want to research before shopping.

Write-Erase Cycles

Unlike the case with hard disk drives, everything is more certain in the world of SSDs. SSDs can only have data written on them a certain number of times before the drive will become only readable and can no longer have any data written on it. This issue is blown way out of proportion, The lifetime of MLC flash memory (used in most SSDs), can generally handle ~10,000 write-erase cycles before they degrade below acceptable levels. there for if you have a 64GB SSD x 10,000 write-erase cycles then you can theoretically write up to 640000GB or 625TB of data into it before the NAND wears out, witch is massive amount. You would have to write 350.49GB to the drive, everyday. Thats overwriting the whole drive 5.4 times, everyday. how ever the more write-erase cycles you put it threw the slower it will become over time. this is why you should only put Programs that don't do a lot of writing and erasing on your SSD.

RAID

You can arrange SSDs in RAID configurations, just as you can with hard drives assuming you have the money for two or more SSDs. Although this is highly impractical since a HDD raid array will be more than adequate for any situation

Conclusion

There's absolutely nothing like an SSD, and once you've booted into Windows with one chances are you won't want to go back. If you're ready to take the plunge, find a comfortable but small-capacity drive 128GB is a good size and pair it with a spacious hard drive (or two) to give you plenty of room for all your non-application storage. If both drives support 6Gbps SATA III, you'll realize the full benefits of the speed at your disposal. Regardless, this setup will give you an excellent overall balance of price and security and performance that must be experienced to be believed.

WARNINGS!!

-NEVER EVER DEFRAGMENT A SSD

- You should always buy from a reliable brand. Some SSD manufacturers use cheap flash chips in their products to cut costs. That make the device cost less in detriment to quality and reliability.

∞Power Supply∞

the least exciting piece of the puzzle. Oftentimes, it's just an afterthought. A bigger power supply doesn't make your PC run any faster, and it labors away day after day, hidden inside the case. Yet the power supply is actually one of the most important parts in any PC, considering that every component relies on it. Investing in a well-built power supply that can handle your computer's power needs can save you from migraine-grade headaches down the road.

Given how critical the power supply is, enthusiasts know to ignore the cheap supplies that sometimes come bundled with cases or "bargain" models that seem to compete purely on price. While those supplies might do the job, do you really want to trust the operation of every component in your PC to a generic, lowest-bidder device?

Figuring out what makes a given power supply a good fit for your PC takes some careful consideration. When you look at boxed power supplies in a store, or models advertised online, you’ll see that the single specification most often emphasized is the wattage rating. That's important, but choosing a power supply requires more than just figuring out if that number is high enough. Here are 6 steps for picking out the right power supply for your new computer.

Determine the wattage you need

Use a PSU calculator web page or software to help determine your requirements

Connectors

Make sure the PSU has the right cables to power all of your new hardware such as Video card(s), hard drive(s) etc.

High-Efficiency Ratings

PSU's rated under load temperatures, not room temperatures. Anything 80% and above is good. At 83%, approximately 17% of the wattage is lost as heat. Therefore, a PSU that may be advertised as a 500W PSU, will actually be drawing almost 600W at the wall. Efficiency drops over time and during the life of the PSU. A year-old PSU is most likely not capable of producing the same amount of energy it once did when it was new.

Robustness

How well does the PSU handle changes in current? Although not a guarantee, there's a strong correlation between weight and quality: bigger components (ie, capacitors) equate to a more tolerant, reliable PSU. This is one downside to a 120mm fan: while it does provide quieter cooling, the components to be cooled must be more tightly packed. If you don't care about noise, an 80mm cooling fan in the traditional place on the rear of the PSU may offer better value

Number of Rails

Just as your house's fuse box includes both a large main breaker and a smaller circuit breaker per circuit to ensure the smaller-branch circuit wires do not overheat, high-capacity PSUs divide their output into multiple "rails," each with a smaller current limit. The relevant safety standard requires a 20A limit, which is quite generous, given that the wires are smaller than those used in your house to carry 15A. (But there's the advantage that the wires aren't hidden in walls, so they're cooled better, and you'll smell it if something starts burning.) This, however, makes connecting the PSU more complex; in addition to not overloading it overall, you have to avoid overloading each rail, or it will shut down. A good power supply will make that easy by providing rails totaling much more than the total PSU rating. A cheaper alternative is to provide just enough rails to total the overall capacity, which makes it difficult to use all of a power supply's capacity. (This may be a clue that the PSU is incapable of delivering its full-rated capacity.) An even cheaper alternative, which has become quite popular, is to eliminate all of the safety circuitry and produce a "single-rail" power supply that can deliver all of its output on any wire. This is technically in violation of the ATX-power-supply specification but has not proved to be a safety problem in practice, and is preferred by many people. A single-rail design isn't itself a sign of a low-quality PSU.

Modular

It will help eliminate extra wires to get in the way of cooling. Ignore the claims that say modular cables create more resistance due to corrosion of contacts. The additional resistance is negligible

WARNINGS!!

- Power supplies are almost always overrated in their peak wattage number (which is the number most heavily advertised). There are really only a handful of brands out there that do not involve themselves in these games. These are the brands that I talk about towards the end of this Post in the 'Recommendations' Section. If you are going to buy from a lesser known brand you will want to pick a power supply that seems like “overkill” simply to make sure you have adequate power. If you are building a brand new system, anything under 400 watts simply won't cut it. SLI, multiple hard drives/optical drives, case lighting, and especially overclocking significantly raise this number. A general rule of thumb is that one should purchase the nicest power supply he or she can afford. The power supply should be the highest priority when choosing components; if working with a set budget, invest in the power supply and compromise elsewhere.

- Never test a power supply with a paperclip. That is very dangerous. no one knows how many people die a year from this but its many many people.

- Never open a power supply. A power supply contains capacitors that hold a charge even while a computer is turned off; this discharge can seriously injure the user.

∞Case∞

Chances are that when you think about your desktop computer, you don't think too much about its case. In fact, as long as it meets a few basic requirements, everything else is probably pretty much okay: Does it hold all your hardware? Do the buttons and lights work? Are there USB ports on the front? And when it comes right down to it, these aren't minor concerns. More than any other component, the case is so simple that you only have to look at it to know how it works.

That doesn't mean, however, that there aren't plenty of places to go wrong when deciding which case you want to house your new computer (or the components you already have). Understanding what the case does, how it works, and why it's designed the way it is will help you make smart buying choices.

Cooling

The biggest way that a case can contribute to, or detract from a system's performance is in how well it cools (or doesn't cool) the interior components. This means you'll want to pay attention to the fans your case has out of the box and how many you can add to it later. Just about all computers have an exhaust fan on the rear panel for expelling heated air, and most have intake fans on the front panel for bringing air into the case. (Frequently, the intake fan is placed right near the hard drives, so they can be cooled before anything else.) The more powerful the system, the more additional fans you're likely to see; high-performance PCs can also include extra exhaust fans in the case's ceiling, or intake fans in the side panel (not coincidentally, those are often located right over the processor). The thing to remember is that the more fans you have, and the smaller they are, the more noise your computer will produce. If the case you're eyeing doesn't have special sound-proofing material plastered across its insides, but you don't want to have to worry about overheating issues later, consider a few big fans rather than a bunch of tiny ones. Large fans can move more air while spinning more slowly, and will thus keep your PC from sounding like a jet engine.

Size

Unlike with motherboards and processors, a case's size doesn't need to be explained. Bigger cases can hold more optical and hard drives, have room for bigger video cards, and are easier to work in. Buy what you need for the hardware you have, and what you expect to need later. But you'll need to give some thought to the issue of form factor. This refers to the design of the case's interior, and to the type of motherboard the case supports. Though you'll occasionally see a few others, the most common right now are ATX (which measures about 12 by 9.6 inches) and microATX (which measures about 9.6 by 9.6 inches).

A microATX motherboard will generally work in a case designed around the ATX form factor, but not vice-versa, even if you can somehow cram an ATX motherboard into a microATX case, it will be so tight you won't have room to do anything else. And because ATX motherboards have more expansion slots, there won't be any way to access those from outside the case once you're done building the system. Make sure the motherboard's form factor matches that of the case, and you'll never go wrong.

Drive Bays

As mentioned above, the larger the case, the more drive bays it's likely to have. There are three basic sizes of drive bays that determine what kinds of drives can be used in them. The first is the 5.25-inch bay, which is the wider style used for DVD and Blu-ray optical drives. (Some other kinds of hardware, such as specialized fan or audio controllers, are also sized for 5.25-inch bays.) Then there are 3.5-inch bays, which may be either internal or external: For ages, the external version was used for 3.5-inch floppy disks, but now you'll usually see card readers in those spaces; internal bays are where you'll put your hard drives. Most full-size tower cases will have two or three 5.25-inch bays and four or five internal 3.5-inch bays; some cases come with specially designed adapters that let you install a 3.5-inch drive in a 5.25-inch bay if your case doesn't have a 3.5-inch external door on the front. The third kind is the 2.5-inch bay, which is still uncommon in most desktop PCs but it's slowly becoming more popular. These are intended for smaller hard drives and "naked" solid-state drives (SSDs), and are usually found below the internal 3.5-inch drive well, or perhaps elsewhere on the floor of the case. A few cases do have external 2.5-inch bays, but these are very rare, most of the time, the case will provide some method of securing a 2.5-inch drive in a 3.5-inch bay.

Expansion Slots

Most ATX cases have six or seven slots on the rear panel for adding expansion cards; microATX cases usually have four. However high-end gaming cases designed for users of multiple two-slot video cards can have as many as 10 slots!—but those are rare examples you probably won't come across accidentally. Check the specs before you buy, just in case. :P

Form

Cases may be the easiest components to buy, because there's often no question about what you need, but they're also among the hardest because they're how you present your computer to the world. Do you like the case's shape and its color? Is squat, boxy, and sedate acceptable, or are you looking for something taller, sleeker, and shinier? Are you okay with something that looks traditional, or are you hankering from something that looks like it was designed for a high-budget sci-fi movie? Do you want tons of individual LEDs and lighting strips adorning every surface, or would you prefer to see as little illumination as possible? Do you anticipate wanting to mod the case yourself, or do you want nifty built-in features like hot-swappable hard drive doors in the side panel, external removable fans, and top-mounted 2.5-inch drive bays? All these and more can be had—for a price.

Cases can cost anywhere from under $50 to over $800 (and no, that's not a typo), but you can find one with everything you need for less than $100 and fully decked-out gaming cases for around $200. The toughest part will be finding the one that best complements your personality and the system you're hoping to build—but that's also one of the most fun and rewarding parts of assembling a computer from scratch.

There is more to come P.S. if I have made a error or you think i should add something please send me a message and I will change/add it please don’t post it here.

∞Cooling∞

∞Helpful Web Sites∞

»http://www.Newegg.com← Best Prices and customer service

»http://www.Tigerdirect.com

»http://www.pcpartpicker.com

»http://www.logicalincrements.com/

∞Citation∞

These are the websites i got most of my info from

1. http://www.techradar.com

2. http://www.pcmag.com

3. http://blogs.intel.com

4. http://arstechnica.com

5. http://www.tomshardware.com/

6. http://www.overclock.net/ <3

7. http://www.bit-tech.net/

8. http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/

FFXIAH.com
Home Item Search Power Search Player Search Power Search Linkshell Search Browse Recipes Bazaar Wanted xNM Relics Achievements Guild Pattern Item Sets Database Shouts Rewards Ambuscade Assault Campaign Conquest Divergence Plasm Sparks Unity Community Badges Chat Donations Forum Forum Rules FFRK Nintendo Twitch Other Sites BG Wiki Discord FFXIDB FFXIVPro Guildwork Windower Language: JP EN DE FR New Items 2023-11-19 users online	Computer build guide part2 ∞Hard Disk Drives∞ Size When you're shopping for an internal hard drive, the most crucial characteristic is its size. Unsurprisingly larger drives are usually (but not always) more expensive than drives with smaller capacities. If you regularly shoot videos or use your PC for recording television, go for the biggest hard drive you can get: upwards of 2TB. Serious photographers who store lots of photos in RAW format will also want a fair amount of space, as will music lovers with vast MP3 or AAC libraries and serious gamers. (If all you play are casual games, you're probably fine.) Everyone else can probably get away with less; you don't need much space to just install Windows 7 and Microsoft Office, and store Word documents, Excel spreadsheets, and a small collection of family photos. How Many though mainstream systems with only one hard drive. There are some real-world benefits to having more than one drive installed on your computer. Chief among them are speed and value, which we'll get to later, and the security of knowing that neither a catastrophic Windows crash nor a freak power supply failure will wipe out a decade's worth of cherished memories or vital business records. Having one drive exclusively for your programs and at least one drive for everything else is about the best compromise possible. If you don't think you'll need all that space, a single, high-quality drive will be fine. Price Try to avoid just going for the cheapest hard drive on the market. It will hold all of your personal data, so you want to buy for quality. Read user reviews and if a hard drive is getting good reviews and it's cheap, go for it. Otherwise, steer clear. WARNING!!Don’t buy refurbished hard drives no matter how low the price is. The potential trouble down the road is not worth the savings Redundant Arrays of Independent Disks (RAID) If you've got more than one hard drive in your system, there's nothing wrong with just letting each one operate independently. But setting them up in a RAID configuration can give you added options, performance, and security. With RAID, which stands for Redundant Array of Independent Disks (or Inexpensive Disks), you can "combine" multiple smaller drives to create one big drive (RAID Level 0, or "striping"), a single "mirrored" drive that offers no added space but guards against data loss (RAID Level 1), or a number of other configurations. Many motherboards today have integrated RAID controllers; check your system or motherboard manual if you're not sure yours does. RAID is too hefty a subject to cover in depth here. If you want to learn more click on the link below. MORE INFORMATION ON RAID Speed Different hard drives spin at different rates, and the faster you want your PC to serve up your data, the more you'll usually have to pay to make it happen. The average speed for a desktop hard drive is 7,200 revolutions per minute (rpm), and you can get that right up to the (current) top capacity of 4TB. There are also 10,000~15,000rpm hard drives, which are noticeably faster but available in overall smaller capacities. Some "low-power," "energy-saving," or "green" hard drives spin even slower and cost even less like a Western Digital 5,400rpm 1TB Caviar Green drive. You should try to avoid 5,400RPM drives they will slow down your new system. Interface The method by which the drive connects to the computer can have a drastic impact on its performance. Almost every consumer drive you'll see these days uses Serial ATA (aka SATA), in either the older 3Gbps or the newer 6Gbps speed. If your motherboard has a 6Gbps (SATA III) port, and the drive supports the technology, definitely use it—it operates at twice the speed of the last generation of SATA. Conclusion The drive or drives you choose will depend primarily on your specific computing lifestyle and the amount of money you have to spend. Buy a modestly sized but fast main drive, such as a 10,000rpm VelociRaptor or an SSD, and install all your programs on that; and keep a second, bigger hard drive on hand for our data, even if it spins at slower speed. ∞Solid State Drives∞ SSDs have been the latest craze among PC owners seeking to enhance the overall performance and user experience of their current PCs. PC owners are attracted to the SSD’s promise of faster data access, lower power consumption, ruggedness, and its complete operational silence as compared to the rotating magnetic hard disk drives (HDDs) typically used today. SSDs are based on NAND flash memory, like the kind you'll find in USB keys, memory cards, and music players, rather than the spinning, magnetized platters that hard drives use. This lets them access their data far more quickly than can hard drives, which have to physically track down the information you're looking for. If you have Windows 7 installed on an SSD rather than a hard drive, your PC may boot up in seconds rather than a minute or so. Doesn't sound too impressive? Calculate the number of times you boot your computer in a year, then add all the times you move or copy files, or save large videos or photos, and you'll be shocked at the amount of time you may be able to save. Price I don't like reducing every component buying decision down to how deep your pockets are but as with video cards the more you spend the better the performance. These things are expensive, and the more storage you want, the more you'll have to dish out. A 1TB Western Digital VelociRaptor hard drive, spinning at 10,000rpm, is currently available for $230 on Newegg.com, which means you're paying about 22 cents per gigabyte of space. By comparison, the the cheapest 1TB SSD Newegg lists is a version of the of the SAMSUNG 840 EVO, and it costs $649.99— 63 cents per gigabyte. If all you want to pay is $230 for a SSD, You still have bunch of choices such as 180Gb Intel 520 Cherryville, 240Gb Kingston V300 Series and 256Gb SAMSUNG 830 Series to name a few. Size First and foremost, junk the notion that you're going to put all of your data on an SSD. You're not. Unless your budget is massive. The good news is, you don't need to. First, you'll have to abandon the idea that more space is automatically better. 2nd figure out what Programs/games you use the most. Your operating system. Microsoft office and maybe some games (Crysis 3, Skyrim etc. not the leaner PopCap variety). Once you know this, determine how much space they take up. If you’re using a PC the easiest way to find this out is by looking at the "Size" column in the "Uninstall or change program" screen in Windows. now you know how big of an SSD to seek out. You should leave yourself a little wiggle room, say around 20GB but if all your programs/games add up to 50GB of space on your hard drive, spending $400 or more on a 512GB SSD is probably going to be a waste. Just put all the rest of your data (Pictures, Movies, Music) on a HDD NOTE:The amount of storage space available on an SSD is seldom going to be exactly what's advertised. All SSDs require a little bit of space for "overprovisioning," or reserved functions that help the drive work. A drive that's advertised as 256GB, for example, might have less than 240GB available once it's formatted Interface All consumer SSDs use the Serial ATA (SATA) interface, but that doesn't mean you don't need to pay attention to that line on the spec sheet. There are two different versions of SATA: SATA II, which offers transfer rates of 3Gbps, and SATA III, which pushes data along at 6Gbps. Just as when you're buying a hard drive, faster is pretty much always better, so SATA III is the way to go if your hardware supports it. It's worth pointing out that a SATA II SSD will still be faster than pretty much any spinning hard drive, but it won't compare to SATA III. TRIM SUPPORT!! This feature is important because it allows the OS to inform the SSD which data blocks are no longer needed and can truly be deleted. The TRIM feature essentially allows the SSD to do its background “house cleaning” in preparation to store new data. If an SSD does not have this feature, the SSD’s read and write performance can be severely hindered – it will essentially be trying to move in and clean house all at once. Not fun! Most new drives do in fact support the TRIM command, but this is one feature you’ll want to research before shopping. Write-Erase Cycles Unlike the case with hard disk drives, everything is more certain in the world of SSDs. SSDs can only have data written on them a certain number of times before the drive will become only readable and can no longer have any data written on it. This issue is blown way out of proportion, The lifetime of MLC flash memory (used in most SSDs), can generally handle ~10,000 write-erase cycles before they degrade below acceptable levels. there for if you have a 64GB SSD x 10,000 write-erase cycles then you can theoretically write up to 640000GB or 625TB of data into it before the NAND wears out, witch is massive amount. You would have to write 350.49GB to the drive, everyday. Thats overwriting the whole drive 5.4 times, everyday. how ever the more write-erase cycles you put it threw the slower it will become over time. this is why you should only put Programs that don't do a lot of writing and erasing on your SSD. RAID You can arrange SSDs in RAID configurations, just as you can with hard drives assuming you have the money for two or more SSDs. Although this is highly impractical since a HDD raid array will be more than adequate for any situation Conclusion There's absolutely nothing like an SSD, and once you've booted into Windows with one chances are you won't want to go back. If you're ready to take the plunge, find a comfortable but small-capacity drive 128GB is a good size and pair it with a spacious hard drive (or two) to give you plenty of room for all your non-application storage. If both drives support 6Gbps SATA III, you'll realize the full benefits of the speed at your disposal. Regardless, this setup will give you an excellent overall balance of price and security and performance that must be experienced to be believed. WARNINGS!! -NEVER EVER DEFRAGMENT A SSD - You should always buy from a reliable brand. Some SSD manufacturers use cheap flash chips in their products to cut costs. That make the device cost less in detriment to quality and reliability. ∞Power Supply∞ the least exciting piece of the puzzle. Oftentimes, it's just an afterthought. A bigger power supply doesn't make your PC run any faster, and it labors away day after day, hidden inside the case. Yet the power supply is actually one of the most important parts in any PC, considering that every component relies on it. Investing in a well-built power supply that can handle your computer's power needs can save you from migraine-grade headaches down the road. Given how critical the power supply is, enthusiasts know to ignore the cheap supplies that sometimes come bundled with cases or "bargain" models that seem to compete purely on price. While those supplies might do the job, do you really want to trust the operation of every component in your PC to a generic, lowest-bidder device? Figuring out what makes a given power supply a good fit for your PC takes some careful consideration. When you look at boxed power supplies in a store, or models advertised online, you’ll see that the single specification most often emphasized is the wattage rating. That's important, but choosing a power supply requires more than just figuring out if that number is high enough. Here are 6 steps for picking out the right power supply for your new computer. Determine the wattage you need Use a PSU calculator web page or software to help determine your requirements Connectors Make sure the PSU has the right cables to power all of your new hardware such as Video card(s), hard drive(s) etc. High-Efficiency Ratings PSU's rated under load temperatures, not room temperatures. Anything 80% and above is good. At 83%, approximately 17% of the wattage is lost as heat. Therefore, a PSU that may be advertised as a 500W PSU, will actually be drawing almost 600W at the wall. Efficiency drops over time and during the life of the PSU. A year-old PSU is most likely not capable of producing the same amount of energy it once did when it was new. Robustness How well does the PSU handle changes in current? Although not a guarantee, there's a strong correlation between weight and quality: bigger components (ie, capacitors) equate to a more tolerant, reliable PSU. This is one downside to a 120mm fan: while it does provide quieter cooling, the components to be cooled must be more tightly packed. If you don't care about noise, an 80mm cooling fan in the traditional place on the rear of the PSU may offer better value Number of Rails Just as your house's fuse box includes both a large main breaker and a smaller circuit breaker per circuit to ensure the smaller-branch circuit wires do not overheat, high-capacity PSUs divide their output into multiple "rails," each with a smaller current limit. The relevant safety standard requires a 20A limit, which is quite generous, given that the wires are smaller than those used in your house to carry 15A. (But there's the advantage that the wires aren't hidden in walls, so they're cooled better, and you'll smell it if something starts burning.) This, however, makes connecting the PSU more complex; in addition to not overloading it overall, you have to avoid overloading each rail, or it will shut down. A good power supply will make that easy by providing rails totaling much more than the total PSU rating. A cheaper alternative is to provide just enough rails to total the overall capacity, which makes it difficult to use all of a power supply's capacity. (This may be a clue that the PSU is incapable of delivering its full-rated capacity.) An even cheaper alternative, which has become quite popular, is to eliminate all of the safety circuitry and produce a "single-rail" power supply that can deliver all of its output on any wire. This is technically in violation of the ATX-power-supply specification but has not proved to be a safety problem in practice, and is preferred by many people. A single-rail design isn't itself a sign of a low-quality PSU. Modular It will help eliminate extra wires to get in the way of cooling. Ignore the claims that say modular cables create more resistance due to corrosion of contacts. The additional resistance is negligible WARNINGS!! - Power supplies are almost always overrated in their peak wattage number (which is the number most heavily advertised). There are really only a handful of brands out there that do not involve themselves in these games. These are the brands that I talk about towards the end of this Post in the 'Recommendations' Section. If you are going to buy from a lesser known brand you will want to pick a power supply that seems like “overkill” simply to make sure you have adequate power. If you are building a brand new system, anything under 400 watts simply won't cut it. SLI, multiple hard drives/optical drives, case lighting, and especially overclocking significantly raise this number. A general rule of thumb is that one should purchase the nicest power supply he or she can afford. The power supply should be the highest priority when choosing components; if working with a set budget, invest in the power supply and compromise elsewhere. - Never test a power supply with a paperclip. That is very dangerous. no one knows how many people die a year from this but its many many people. - Never open a power supply. A power supply contains capacitors that hold a charge even while a computer is turned off; this discharge can seriously injure the user. ∞Case∞ Chances are that when you think about your desktop computer, you don't think too much about its case. In fact, as long as it meets a few basic requirements, everything else is probably pretty much okay: Does it hold all your hardware? Do the buttons and lights work? Are there USB ports on the front? And when it comes right down to it, these aren't minor concerns. More than any other component, the case is so simple that you only have to look at it to know how it works. That doesn't mean, however, that there aren't plenty of places to go wrong when deciding which case you want to house your new computer (or the components you already have). Understanding what the case does, how it works, and why it's designed the way it is will help you make smart buying choices. Cooling The biggest way that a case can contribute to, or detract from a system's performance is in how well it cools (or doesn't cool) the interior components. This means you'll want to pay attention to the fans your case has out of the box and how many you can add to it later. Just about all computers have an exhaust fan on the rear panel for expelling heated air, and most have intake fans on the front panel for bringing air into the case. (Frequently, the intake fan is placed right near the hard drives, so they can be cooled before anything else.) The more powerful the system, the more additional fans you're likely to see; high-performance PCs can also include extra exhaust fans in the case's ceiling, or intake fans in the side panel (not coincidentally, those are often located right over the processor). The thing to remember is that the more fans you have, and the smaller they are, the more noise your computer will produce. If the case you're eyeing doesn't have special sound-proofing material plastered across its insides, but you don't want to have to worry about overheating issues later, consider a few big fans rather than a bunch of tiny ones. Large fans can move more air while spinning more slowly, and will thus keep your PC from sounding like a jet engine. Size Unlike with motherboards and processors, a case's size doesn't need to be explained. Bigger cases can hold more optical and hard drives, have room for bigger video cards, and are easier to work in. Buy what you need for the hardware you have, and what you expect to need later. But you'll need to give some thought to the issue of form factor. This refers to the design of the case's interior, and to the type of motherboard the case supports. Though you'll occasionally see a few others, the most common right now are ATX (which measures about 12 by 9.6 inches) and microATX (which measures about 9.6 by 9.6 inches). A microATX motherboard will generally work in a case designed around the ATX form factor, but not vice-versa, even if you can somehow cram an ATX motherboard into a microATX case, it will be so tight you won't have room to do anything else. And because ATX motherboards have more expansion slots, there won't be any way to access those from outside the case once you're done building the system. Make sure the motherboard's form factor matches that of the case, and you'll never go wrong. Drive Bays As mentioned above, the larger the case, the more drive bays it's likely to have. There are three basic sizes of drive bays that determine what kinds of drives can be used in them. The first is the 5.25-inch bay, which is the wider style used for DVD and Blu-ray optical drives. (Some other kinds of hardware, such as specialized fan or audio controllers, are also sized for 5.25-inch bays.) Then there are 3.5-inch bays, which may be either internal or external: For ages, the external version was used for 3.5-inch floppy disks, but now you'll usually see card readers in those spaces; internal bays are where you'll put your hard drives. Most full-size tower cases will have two or three 5.25-inch bays and four or five internal 3.5-inch bays; some cases come with specially designed adapters that let you install a 3.5-inch drive in a 5.25-inch bay if your case doesn't have a 3.5-inch external door on the front. The third kind is the 2.5-inch bay, which is still uncommon in most desktop PCs but it's slowly becoming more popular. These are intended for smaller hard drives and "naked" solid-state drives (SSDs), and are usually found below the internal 3.5-inch drive well, or perhaps elsewhere on the floor of the case. A few cases do have external 2.5-inch bays, but these are very rare, most of the time, the case will provide some method of securing a 2.5-inch drive in a 3.5-inch bay. Expansion Slots Most ATX cases have six or seven slots on the rear panel for adding expansion cards; microATX cases usually have four. However high-end gaming cases designed for users of multiple two-slot video cards can have as many as 10 slots!—but those are rare examples you probably won't come across accidentally. Check the specs before you buy, just in case. :P Form Cases may be the easiest components to buy, because there's often no question about what you need, but they're also among the hardest because they're how you present your computer to the world. Do you like the case's shape and its color? Is squat, boxy, and sedate acceptable, or are you looking for something taller, sleeker, and shinier? Are you okay with something that looks traditional, or are you hankering from something that looks like it was designed for a high-budget sci-fi movie? Do you want tons of individual LEDs and lighting strips adorning every surface, or would you prefer to see as little illumination as possible? Do you anticipate wanting to mod the case yourself, or do you want nifty built-in features like hot-swappable hard drive doors in the side panel, external removable fans, and top-mounted 2.5-inch drive bays? All these and more can be had—for a price. Cases can cost anywhere from under $50 to over $800 (and no, that's not a typo), but you can find one with everything you need for less than $100 and fully decked-out gaming cases for around $200. The toughest part will be finding the one that best complements your personality and the system you're hoping to build—but that's also one of the most fun and rewarding parts of assembling a computer from scratch. There is more to come P.S. if I have made a error or you think i should add something please send me a message and I will change/add it please don’t post it here. ∞Cooling∞ ∞Helpful Web Sites∞ »http://www.Newegg.com← Best Prices and customer service »http://www.Tigerdirect.com »http://www.pcpartpicker.com »http://www.logicalincrements.com/ ∞Citation∞ These are the websites i got most of my info from 1. http://www.techradar.com 2. http://www.pcmag.com 3. http://blogs.intel.com 4. http://arstechnica.com 5. http://www.tomshardware.com/ 6. http://www.overclock.net/ <3 7. http://www.bit-tech.net/ 8. http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/ Author: nayomi423 Date Created: 2017-11-19 17:09:14 Date Last Modified: 2017-11-19 17:09:14 Updates: 1 Bytes: 27814	Login - Register advertisements
All FFXI content and images © 2002-2024 SQUARE ENIX CO., LTD. FINAL FANTASY is a registered trademark of Square Enix Co., Ltd. About - Advertising - Privacy - Contact

From:
To:
Subject:
Body: